Our wander over to La Sebastiana took us first down to El Plan and a stroll over to Plaza Sotomayor, then a vertical hike up in the creaky Ascensor El Peral to Cerro Alegre for 100 pesos each. Then up and up into the hills along vividly painted streets and houses piled on top of…
Author: paulandanthony
A wander over to La Sebastiana
Pablo Neruda had three houses in Chile: La Chascona in Santiago, a place down the coast at Isla Negra and La Sebastiana in Valparaíso. In finding a house here he asked of his friends – “It can’t be located too high or too low. It should be solitary but not in excess. With neighbours but…
What a difference a day makes
What a difference a day makes. Yesterday was decidedly chilly with a cold wind running off the snow-capped Andes, whilst today is gloriously sunny and spring-like here in Valparaiso. That’s probably Aconcagua in the far snowy distance, the highest mountain in both the Southern and Western Hemispheres at 6,960 metres!
A dark past on a clear day
After yesterday’s fog and rain cleared we had a surprise addition to the view from our balcony. Out across the bay towards Viña del Mar can be seen the Andes, magnificently covered in snow – though too far away to get a good shot, but rest-assured a glorious sight and bathed in Spring sunshine. But…
Industrious in Valparaíso
Second attempt at picking up my newly repaired MacBook Pro (yes, the saga continues) but the Mac Online store over in Viña del Mar is closed due to the ‘Day of the Glories of the Army’ – it’s now been largely closed since last Friday due to the Fiestas Patrias. Hoping tomorrow, Thursday, isn’t yet…
Please don’t try this at home
Terremoto is a traditional ‘earthquake’ cocktail served in a 1-LITRE glass (yep that’s right) consumed over the Fiestas Patrias holidays, which may account for the late risers sleeping off their hangovers this morning. Take lashings of pineapple ice-cream then pour in and fill to the brim with a bottle of Pipeño white wine… then to…
A Gringo’s Guide to “Fiestas Patrias” (Fogs & Flags)
Don’t expect anything to happen anywhere here until well into the afternoon or evening. Chilenos like to sleep in late, very late – just as well, as from what we can tell they don’t get in until 4 or 5am during these holidays. Don’t be fooled by the heavy rain and thick swirling fog enveloping…
A sense of renewal
I’ve been wondering why the place has a distinct air of dilapidation, which I have to say has its charms, don’t get me wrong, but this place has seen better days. And the reason lies with the Panama Canal, which when it opened in 1914, delivered Valparaíso, with its port-based economy, a devastating blow. Valparaíso…
The Cave of the Sneak
La Cueva de Chivato (The Cave of the Sneak) is both a bricked up cave and a Valparaíso legend. It lies rather hidden at the base of Cerro Concepcíon in the heart of bustling downtown, up a narrow passaje and behind the El Mercurio building (the oldest continuously running Spanish language publication in the world,…
Enough steps already!
If you get tired of steps in Valparaíso, and you will, than what better way to get from one street to the other than sliding down. This particular passaje has both options – I was sorely tempted to try the slide but was beaten time and time again by this little devil, until someone else…