Night And Day – Day And Night

It’s good to be home after almost five months of travelling – though from what we’re told, we didn’t miss much beyond the endless torrential rain, all thanks to the intense La Niña event that has saturated the east coast of Australia for months now. We got back to a week or so of heavy…

Seas The Day

We spent a lovely couple of days with my family down in Bournemouth on the ‘English Riviera’, basking in the warm, albeit brief, spring sunshine. So, where better to go for a ramble with Rupert (the oh-so-gorgeous Cockapoo) than Hengistbury Head, a site that’s been occupied since the early hunter-gatherers of the Stone Age, but…

Eltham. The Tudor-Deco Party Palace

Could there be more of a contrast than tropical Mérida one day and an English royal stately home in springtime the next? And not just any old stately home, but Eltham Palace, once the playground of Henry VIII, one of only six royal residences large enough to accommodate and feed the entire Tudor court. But…

Hasta Luego Mérida!

Sadly, it’s time to leave glorious Mérida. We’ve had the most wonderful time here over the past few months, but we feel it’s more ‘see you later’ than goodbye, as we’re sure we’ll be back someday – who knows, could be sooner rather than later… Living here in Mérida was always going to be a…

Xcambó – ‘Celestial Crocodile’

A short drive from the Xtampú Salt Mines lies the ancient Mayan site of Xcambó, a small group of low-lying pyramids, temple complexes and stone structures that would have once been a thriving and important commercial port – exporting what else but salt – and one of the few Mayan sites built on the coast. …

The Xtampú Salt Mines

Today was our last adventure on this trip with our trusty local cabbie, José Luis. We were headed for the Costa Esmeralda, a long narrow isthmus of land stretching some 80ks from Progreso and running west through endless condo developments and new construction sites facing the Gulf of Mexico. It’s a fine spot, you’d think,…

A Feast For The Senses – Mercado Pedro Sainz de Baranda, Campeche

Just beyond the Puerta de Tierra and outside of the Campeche city wall is the Mercado Pedro Sainz de Baranda, a densely packed maze of fresh produce stalls and busy taquerias. There’s a steamy circular food court in the centre of the mercado packed with people enjoying local favourites such as Dogfish Pozole, Tamales Yucatecos,…

Pirates Of The Gulf (Just Around The Corner From The Caribbean)

After its foundation in 1540, Campeche quickly became a victim of its own success thanks to its strategic position in the Gulf of Mexico. Heaving Spanish galleons plied these lucrative waters, making regular runs between the New World of Mexico and the Old World of Spain and, by the early 1600s, Campeche had become one…

Going Baroque In Campeche

Just over 180ks from Mérida lies the beautiful pocket-sized coastal city of Campeche, founded in 1540 by the Spanish conquistadores on top of the ancient Maya city of Ahk’in Pech (Can Pech) and now a UNESCO World Heritage listed city of ‘Outstanding Universal Value’.  We took the super modern ADOgl bus service from Mérida in a little…

El Tren Maya

You’d think a large prosperous North American country like Mexico would be a train-traveller’s dream, but sadly those days are long gone. Mexico was once criss-crossed with passenger trains from el Golfo to el Pacífico , and from the US border to the jungles of the Yucatán. But with the sustained lack of investment, the…