After yesterday’s fog and rain cleared we had a surprise addition to the view from our balcony. Out across the bay towards Viña del Mar can be seen the Andes, magnificently covered in snow – though too far away to get a good shot, but rest-assured a glorious sight and bathed in Spring sunshine. But…
Author: paulandanthony
Industrious in Valparaíso
Second attempt at picking up my newly repaired MacBook Pro (yes, the saga continues) but the Mac Online store over in Viña del Mar is closed due to the ‘Day of the Glories of the Army’ – it’s now been largely closed since last Friday due to the Fiestas Patrias. Hoping tomorrow, Thursday, isn’t yet…
Please don’t try this at home
Terremoto is a traditional ‘earthquake’ cocktail served in a 1-LITRE glass (yep that’s right) consumed over the Fiestas Patrias holidays, which may account for the late risers sleeping off their hangovers this morning. Take lashings of pineapple ice-cream then pour in and fill to the brim with a bottle of Pipeño white wine… then to…
A Gringo’s Guide to “Fiestas Patrias” (Fogs & Flags)
Don’t expect anything to happen anywhere here until well into the afternoon or evening. Chilenos like to sleep in late, very late – just as well, as from what we can tell they don’t get in until 4 or 5am during these holidays. Don’t be fooled by the heavy rain and thick swirling fog enveloping…
A sense of renewal
I’ve been wondering why the place has a distinct air of dilapidation, which I have to say has its charms, don’t get me wrong, but this place has seen better days. And the reason lies with the Panama Canal, which when it opened in 1914, delivered Valparaíso, with its port-based economy, a devastating blow. Valparaíso…
The Cave of the Sneak
La Cueva de Chivato (The Cave of the Sneak) is both a bricked up cave and a Valparaíso legend. It lies rather hidden at the base of Cerro Concepcíon in the heart of bustling downtown, up a narrow passaje and behind the El Mercurio building (the oldest continuously running Spanish language publication in the world,…
Enough steps already!
If you get tired of steps in Valparaíso, and you will, than what better way to get from one street to the other than sliding down. This particular passaje has both options – I was sorely tempted to try the slide but was beaten time and time again by this little devil, until someone else…
A Sunday ramble
We sauntered off to the Sunday Flea Market across town on Avenida Argentina. Unfortunately it was more flea than market with nothing really of interest, largely household stuff, clothes pegs, remote controls, contraband medications, rusted car parts, plastic toys, much of it displayed on blankets and tarpaulins. Every few steps there’s someone selling empanadas baked…
Living in a paintbox – 2
The clouds (and fog) lifted overnight revealing a Valparaíso dawn bathed in a golden, jewel-like glow. It’s often said (by Paul – Ant) that this place is like a tipped up paintbox, and they’re (he’s – Ant) not wrong! It’s Fiestas Patrias long weekend here (‘Patriotic Festivities’ for Chilean Independence Day), which peaks on Tuesday…
The Dark Bars of Valparaíso
Bar Inglés down on Calle Cochrane seems to be a little known institution here in Valparaíso. It’s been here for 101 years and is emblematic of this port’s history and enduring British connections. However, despite the walls plastered with pictures of British royalty, both monarchal and musical – Stones, Beatles and the Queens of England,…