We’re slowly settling into our ‘Casa Chorizo’ in San Telmo and adjusting to the intense January heat. It’s around the 35 degree mark most days and rather on the humid side, so it makes mooching around the barrio quite uncomfortable at times. Typically though, after say half an hour running local errands, we’re back at…
Que hay debajo
A loose translation for this heading would be ‘What lies beneath’. Our enormous gas oven broke down today and a lovely ginger-haired chap came over to fix. I mention this only as ginger hair is an extreme rarity here in Argentina and South America in general. In the process of fixing the oven we finally got to…
Casa San Telmo
We’re back in Buenos Aires and our favourite barrio of San Telmo and in an old 1880’s printing factory converted into a ‘Casa Chorizo’ (sausage house), consisting of 4 apartments, ours being a two-storey affair overlooking the garden courtyard with a pool! This is the perfect oasis for high summer in BA and within walking…
Adios Pucón
We’ve had a wonderful time in and around Pucón and in particular, at our wooden cabin buried deep in the forest and facing the imposing Volcán Villarrica – the photo below was taken right in front of the cabin at sunset the other day. We both woke up in the middle of the night…
Saltos, Rapidos y Rios
Another venture into the wilderness this morning using Rutas Secundarias as much as we could but occasionally forced to take the corrugated dirt-track option of a Ruta de Tierra. I tell you, it’s a good job we don’t have false teeth or anything metallic attached bone-wise as the rattling you endure along these tracks is…
Bosque Incantado
The drive up to the volcano starts off rather understated, a nice smooth dual carriageway, a couple of genteel roundabouts, beautiful lake-side homes trimmed with colourful hydrangeas and then a very gradual climb away from town, past new condo show homes extolling the wonders of living in this lake-side paradise – underneath one of…
Treks, Trails and Thermal Springs
Pucón has to be the adventure capital of Chile, with perhaps more bat-shit crazy adventurous things to do here than you can poke a stick at. The snow-capped Volcán Villarrica towers over everything with a constant wisp of grey curling smoke pluming out of the top. It’s quite threatening really when you understand it is…
Under the Volcano
We left our rustic cabin in Chiloé at 7.30am in cold and overcast conditions, the complete opposite of the past few days, but I guess more typical of summer here. It takes around an hour and half to reach the ferry point at Chacao and just a 20-minute crossing over the grey choppy channel to…
Across the Golfo de Ancud
What is so surprising about driving around the island is the stunning views across the Golfo de Ancud, over to the mainland and beyond towards Argentina, where the towering snow-capped Andes almost reach down to the sea and snowy volcanoes loom large. This has to be one of Chile’s narrowest points as here the…
Iglesias de Chiloé
A truly stunning summer’s day dawned on Sunday, quite the contrast to the previous week’s cold, wet and overcast days, so we took full advantage of this apparently rare fine weather and hit the Circuito Iglesias de Chiloé (the Circuit of the Churches) which is confined to the central eastern side of the island on…