We enjoyed our first evening in the cabin, watching the light slowly fade (real slow mind you) until sunset at 9.30, but it was still light enough towards 10pm to turn the sound into a silvery blue shimmer with the wind shearing over the buoys of the salmon pens. Talk about magical. After a cold…
The end of Christendom
When Darwin came to the archipelago of Chiloé in 1835 he described it as ‘the end of Christendom’. He was referring in part to its location at the end of the world, but also drawing on what the Spanish Conquistadors had struggled with centuries before, the ancient pagan traditions of the native peoples. These involve…
Cabin at the End of the World
“I pictured a low timber house with a shingled roof, caulked against storms, with blazing log fires inside and the walls lined with all the best books, somewhere to live when the rest of the world blew up.” – Bruce Chatwin, In Patagonia No walls lined with the best books I’m afraid but thank goodness for…
In Patagonia
It was reading Bruce Chatwin’s book as a teenager that first fired my imagination about this ‘end-of-the-world’ land, boarded by three great oceans – the Atlantic to the east, the roaring Southern Ocean and Cape Horn to the south and the vast wildness of the Pacific to the west. We’ve come to the mystical and…
Back to base camp
Well, here we are once again, base camp Santiago de Chile. That makes it five visits between December 2017 and January 2019. We arrived from gloomy London (sorry Guy) on BA’s longest haul flight at 14 hours non-stop. This particular flight was a MUCH better experience than flying over to London in November, when we…
Enlightenment
On yet another gloomy winter day in London, where better to seek enlightenment than the British Museum, arguably the greatest museum on the planet… I know, I know, there’s the Louvre or the Met perhaps, or even the Hermitage or Smithsonian, but seriously, the British Museum has to have the most comprehensive world collection anywhere!…
Prospero Año y Felicidad
We’ve been away for 6 months now and I have to say I’m feeling a tad homesick, if only for the sunshine, the cooling sea breezes and the intense sense of light (not to mention our many dear friends and family), for God knows, there’s little of that here in the depths of an English…
Merry Christmas!
Wishing you all a very Happy Christmas and a safe and prosperous 2019. We’ve had a whirlwind few weeks whilst in London – hectic to say the least! I’m looking forward to spending some quiet time with Mum down in Bournemouth whilst Ants heads up to North Wales to be with Dad. It’s incredibly mild…
Barging along the Regent’s Canal
The canal ways of North London are relatively little-known to the hordes of tourists that throng to London year-round. Perhaps this might be different in the summer months, but on a cold winter’s day like yesterday there wasn’t a soul around, aside from some coots, the odd jogger, an elegant swan or two and some…
Icebergs on the Thames
‘Put your hands on the ice, listen to it, smell it, look at it – and witness the ecological changes our world is undergoing.’ – Olafur Eliasson Artist Eliasson and geologist Mink Rosing fished twenty-four iceberg fragments out of the Nuup Kangerlua fjord in Greenland, with each block weighing between 1.5 and 5 tonnes! The…