Strife! – 3

The central business and shopping district (Microcentro) is centered around the Plaza de Mayo and Casa Rosada – it was from this central balcony that Eva Peron would address the thousands of Peronists, ‘the shirtless ones’ – we weren’t shirtless (not since Mexico) but a tune or two did swirl around in my head as…

Strife! – 2

We stumbled upon a real Buenos Aires find over on Defensa, a large warehouse of mid-century furniture, chock-a-block with dusty pieces piled on top of each other, it’s a real treasure trove. Naturally my eye fell upon a classic 70’s dining table and four chairs (it’s the bronze wire chair in the window – one…

Strife!

Argentines are angry that the government turned so quickly to the IMF for a bailout – to the tune of more than US$50 Billion I might add, a record for the IMF. The peso has lost over half of its value this year alone, inflation is spiralling, currently at over 40% and bank interest rates…

Living the dream – life as a Porteño – 2

Refuel completed I headed out again to one of the known ‘safe’ ATM’s over on Colón for some ready-cash via the glorious 19th Century Mercado San Telmo, with its Italianate arched beams, glass windows and abundant market stalls. Here you’ll find fishmongers, veg and fruit stands, butchers, bakers, deli’s and bars, serving morning nips of vermouth…

Living the dream – life as a Porteño

For as long as I can remember I’ve always dreamed I’d end up living in Buenos Aires, I have no idea why, just a thought I had when I was eleven or so. Then along came the Falklands War with threats of conscription, Thatcher’s crazy ‘mad woman’ aggressive rhetoric and The Sun’s grotesque headlines such…

Palermo Primavera

After the wintry grey of the past two days, this morning broke to warm sunshine – lovely! We thought we’d wait for the rush hour to pass, so we ventured out around 11am. But, as we had been warned, it still wasn’t exactly ‘off-peak’. It was teeming with commuters, with long lines for buses and…

Food glorious (cheap) food!

As you may know Argentina is world-famous for the quality of its beef and you can have an incredible steak here for just a few dollars. The steak will be cooked to melt-in-the-mouth perfection, served with a fresh green salad and a bottle of local Malbec for A$28 (£15) for TWO PEOPLE! Similarly, grocery shopping…

Is it fake?

Fake money has become a real problem in Argentina, particularly in Buenos Aires. Even before we landed we were warned to watch out for fakes – to check each note by holding it up to the light to confirm the watermark and NOT to exchange money at the airport, a known purveyor of fake notes!…

Ode to Valparaíso

As I sit here in the apartment looking out of the window, the cold fog is slowly sliding down and enveloping the cerros, covering everything in a white block out. There’s an increasing chill in the salty air. The seagulls are swirling in the thermal rise and the pelícanos are heading home towards Playa Ancha…