Walking on the beach around 7 or so every morning, we’re immediately drawn to the six or more pelicanos swirling in the hot rising air, dive-bombing at speed in-and-around the surfers who are tea-bagging just off the rocks. It’s quite mesmerising to watch, but we’re increasingly drawn to the dark cave entrance with its cactus top and swirling waves.

Pushing through the calf-deep water, you emerge into what can only be described as ‘the land that time forgot’ – I mean, the most spectacular rocks that seem to ooze and land onto the hot sand. I’m thinking they must be volcanic, basalt even. Then, through a pass of high cactus-strewn cliffs is the most spectacular stretch of open beach I think I’ve ever seen – on and on forever… pristine, as are all the beaches here in Puerto Escondido – with barrel tube waves and not a person in sight. We wondered what would happen if we continued walking into the far horizon – which is what you want to do, perhaps even leaving behind the tide rising in the cave, letting loose and just walking on and on…..