Floralis Genérica

Here’s an image for you: on one of the smartest streets in Recoleta, Avenida Alvear and directly opposite the very swish Vatican Embassy, I saw a young ‘street urchin’ having just emerged shirtless from his slumber in a pile of not-so-nice looking blankets, shaving himself, with cream, using the highly polished brass door handles as…

Aclimatándose

  We woke this morning to glorious blue skies and warm ‘buen aire’, made even more heavenly by the glowing green glass windows within the apartment building and the sweet bird song early in the morning. On that, I have to tell you that as lovely as these open-to-the-sky light wells are, noise travels…and with…

City of contrasts – 2

Being Thursday, the day Raquel our cleaner spends all day in the apartment, we headed out and, since we’ve been here in BA, that means taking the packed SUBTE up and across to Palermo. We normally take the D line and get out a Scalabrini Ortiz, walking south into Palermo Viejo and wandering the tree-lined…

City of contrasts

On our drive out to San Antonio de Areco we were somewhat surprised (because we had no idea) to discover a vast illegal favela-like shantytown just blocks from the high-fashion stores and relative luxury of Palermo, Recoleta and Retiro. It’s called Villa 31 and clings to either side of the busy north-west bound autopista with…

San Antonio de Areco

As with all the places we’ve visited in Latin Amercia thus far, we’re fascinated by the indigenous peoples that were here before the Spanish arrived. And in San Antonio de Areco it is particularly interesting, not because of any lasting structures or even any tangible trace of an ancient culture, but because of what came…

The Superclásico to end all Superclásicos

I’m not usually one to gush (or comment even) on soccer matches, but today Boca Juniors were supposed to play arch-rivals River Plate in the much anticipated first leg of the Copa Libertadores final (imagine Man U playing Man City in the European Cup final – in Manchester! – Ant), just down the road from…

San Antonio de Areco – Gaucho Central 2

The street dogs here have acquired the knack of attaching themselves to hapless visitors walking the streets – that’s us by the way. We had one border-collie-like mutt that doggedly pursued us for at least an hour as we explored the back streets of Areco. He selected his prey after being thrown a desperate morsel…

San Antonio de Areco – Gaucho Central

A son am I of the rolling plain A gaucho born and bred And this is my pride; to live as free As the bird that cleaves the sky The partido of San Antonio de Areco is just 113km from Buenos Aires and 852 square kilometres in size yet has a population of just 21,000….

Bosques de Palermo

Gosh, the parks in BA are lovely, numerous and large, perhaps none more lovely than Parque 3 de Febrero just beyond Plaza Italia in Palermo. There’s the lush Jardín Botanico (previously posted). The oddly closed-off but intriguing Eco Parque where we spotted capybaras roaming free (looking rather bored actually, with kangaroo-like paws) just beyond the…