We’re on a Safari in the remarkable Thorny Bush Game Reserve in South Africa, fenceless to the enormous Kruger National Park, South Africa’s premier flagship park spanning some 20,000 square kilometres, whilst Thorny Bush is a mere 140 square kilometres of open savannah and lowveld bushveld (as it’s called) – but boy does it pull its weight. You’re more likely to see the Big Five here than almost anywhere else. And, given its relatively compact size, the animals are seemingly everywhere. You never know what you’ll come across as you barrel with your ranger and spotter along the small dirt tracks. A surprise awaits at every bend.

I don’t think we were quite prepared for the number of wild animals we’d encounter on our dawn and dusk Safaris – It’s wild and exhilarating in every sense! We’re here at Marula Private Camp for 5 days with 2 Safaris a day. One at 5am (that requires a bleary-eyed 4.30am wake up) and the other at a more civilised 4pm. Both for 3 to 4  hours with a break in between. In the morning there’s a coffee break with a sploosh of Amarula Cream Liqueur as a heart starter with dunked rusks, and in the afternoon, beers and nibbles before heading off again into the bush on the hunt for the next wild encounter, returning to camp just after dark where the fire pit has been lit and a self-catered dinner awaits.

We’ve seen so much it’s been quite stunning. Every day has been an adventure roaming around Thorny Bush with our oh so knowledgeable game ranger and driver Brenden and our amazing expert bush tracker Daly who constantly keep his eyes peeled for animals you’ve only ever seen in nature documentaries, most of them found from freshly made tracks in the sand or happened upon as we tracked across this rugged open veld.

There are many private camps in Thorny Bush, some so exclusive and privately owned you can’t go anywhere near them, whilst others are both exclusive and pricey, upwards of $3000 to $8000 a night! Per person! But, we’re all in the mix at the end of the day, roaming around Thorny Bush looking for that next thrilling up close experience. The drivers are in constant communication with each other by radio and share what they’ve come across, so often multiple Land Cruisers come together to one sighting. These specially modified, open-air 4×4 Land Cruisers are real beasts in their own right. Completely open sides and no roof provides unobstructed, 360-degrees views with elevated tiered seating. We were a group of 8 and everyone had an amazing view, with rugs and waterproof rubberised ponchos for when the weather turns – as it did on one day, when the temperature plummeted 20 degrees and a thunder storm pounded down rain.

Everything is up close and personal, like we never imagined, often just metres away from us. You’re not allowed to stand up in the vehicle as it changes the shape for the animals. They’ve become habituated over time and therefore used to seeing and hearing the vehicles, but if there’s any change, a loud noise or sudden move the whole situation can change. Needless to say, we were very still, especially when the Lion and Leopard sauntered past, so close you could almost reach out and touch it, though from the looks shot at us, sending shivers down our spines, none of us could move anyway.

Brenden and Daly are on the hunt (as it were) all the time, looking at tracks and paw prints in the sand, following leads and often jumping out of the Land Cruiser, armed rifle in hand and disappearing into the bush, leaving us somewhat exposed, but kind of relived that they were armed. We asked about animals jumping up into the car or Elephant and Rhino charging the vehicle, but we were assured that this wouldn’t happen here at Thorny Bush because the animals were so used to their presence. However, never say never. Follow the rules and their instructions at all times. Apparently, there have been instances in other Game Reserves in the area when dangerous animals have either jumped up or charged the vehicle, where this becomes a real problem for the animals, learning as it were that the vehicle had become a threat. So sadly, these rogue animals are often euthanised to prevent repeat behaviour.

The number of wild animals we’ve seen is staggering but includes up close and personal encounters with Small Spotted Genets, Leopards, Lions, Giraffes, Elephants, White Rhino, Kudu, Painted Wolves (Wild Dogs), Zebra, Spotted Hyena, Flap Necked Chameleons, Hippo, Antelope, Kudu, Nyala, Impala, Water Buck, Warthog, Leopard Tortoise, Vulture, African Hoopee, Mongoose, Ostrich, Steembok, Vervet Monkey, Baboon, Yellow Billed Hornbill, Brown Snake Eagle, Saddle Billed Stork, Cape Buffalo, Grey Daker…and, as a rare treat we even saw a Cheetah, sitting at distance, aloof on a termite mound. Especially rare considering there are thought to be just 175 to 250 individuals left across the whole Kruger region. Our guides were ever hopeful of spotting a Cheetah and then out of the blue one morning, there he was. Thrilling. And ever ubiquitous, the Go Away Bird, named for their signature, loud and nasal alarm call that sounds like a drawn out ‘go away’.