We’ve spent almost 3 glorious weeks in our apartment high up overlooking this tipped out paintbox of a city. We found this place on Airbnb with Gabriel as a Super Host (TIP – you seem to get a heightened and more reliable experience with a Super Host who rely on good reviews to sustain their reputation – we’ve had nothing but excellent stays thus far). Pasaje Farley is around the corner from Ascensor Artilleria, so the views across the bay over towards Viña del Mar, the distant snow-capped Aconcagua (in Argentina) and the whole sweep of the city and the tumbling cerros are all something to behold, not least the ever-changing weather, from vivid bright sunrises to Humboldt rolling fogs to deep purple sunsets. Breathtaking.
We’ve been mostly cooking from home whilst away, which by-the-way is now at 88 days… trying to save money, experiencing the supermarkets and local markets and eating well (says Paul AKA Señor Presumido). On the menu have been pumpkin soup, tuna pasta, the trusty spag bol, a rather yummy marinated ginger and garlic chicken breast, and pork chops with red cabbage and walnut salad amongst other things… I was going to try and cook some of the local dishes but didn’t have a pan large enough for the Conger Eel.
It’s been lovely living in an old 19thCentury apartment – generous proportions, high ceilings and solid wooden floors. Nilda, our lovely cleaner, comes every Friday and the freshness of the linens after her touch is a nice luxury.