According to those in the know (that’d be you JB), Zicatela has one of the largest and fastest waves in the world. We’re told that the ‘Mexican Pipeline’ is for experienced surfers only which is probably why La Punta, at the southern end, and where we’re located, is popular with both locals and travellers and, to the annoyance of residents such as our host Nando, a place increasingly used by virgin surfers – one day of instruction, then they’re let loose…. And you can tell, says Nando.

The resident Pelicans this morning, occasionally numbering a dozen or so, circled just above the surf then each one dive-bombed, wings-pinned-back, like a deadly arrow for a fish – wonderful to watch but, I suspect, definitely putting some of the surfers off their game.

This morning we discovered an open cave at low tide which tantalisingly led onto a whole new stretch of beach with not a soul on it, just the red lighthouse on the bluff and some spectacular barrel waves that formed aquamarine tubes. This is the Biosphere Beach Reserve (a main tortuga – turtle – hatchery) that stretches for miles with no habitation and no one to be seen. That adventure awaits another day.