We weren’t able to score a ticket to the main event – long sold out – so instead we happily sought out the electric vibe on the street. Tantalisingly, wherever we went you could hear the roar from the auditorium (a vast, open-sided tent set on a hill overlooking the city), further amplified by huge monitors in the main square and blaring TV monitors in every café, bar and restaurant. So actually we felt we were very much part of it, along with the many locals who’d also missed out on getting a ticket. Even the street vendors took a break from pushing their painted combs, coloured raffia floor-mats and grasshoppers cleverly plaited from… well, grass… to watch the performances, mesmerised.