The omnipresent Frida. We naively thought we could saunter up, buy a ticket and wander around Casa Azul on a quiet Tuesday morning, surely it wouldn’t be that busy.
However, the cult of Kahlo is alive and well, where the queue to buy a ticket went around the block (and some) – and the queue to enter with an already bought online ticket also went around the block, in the other direction. No thanks. She’s also currently packing them in at the V&A in London with an exhibition of her most intimate personal belongings, so I wonder how much of her stuff was actually at home.
The local Coyoacan market, just two blocks from the house is packed with everything Kahlo – place mats, fridge magnets, purses, puppets, t-shirts….you name it. I wonder what she’d make of all of this. I think we’ve overdosed on Frida, time to explore the barrio. On the flip side, the food section of the market was a riot of colour and packed with taco-munching locals.
Coyoacan, with its narrow stone-flagged streets and leafy squares, is one of CDMX’s most tranquil and affluent barrios and a wonderful place to just wander around, where the wealth of the residents is demonstrated by the height of the ancient and variously coloured walls surrounding each house and the presence of discreetly armed security guards stationed at the wrought-iron or studded wooden gates.
As with everywhere in CDMX, to sit still in one place and quietly observe the ebb and flow of what passes by really gives you a sense of place and history.