There are many gloriously faded mansions and palacios all over Mérida, particularly in Centro Histórico. Some are clearly occupied and restored to their former grandeur, now either banks, corporate headquarters or boutique hotels, whilst others are seemingly abandoned and left to decompose in the tropical sun. I wonder why? No doubt the restoration costs would…

As you may have guessed I’m totally captivated by the vivid colours of Mérida and, more and more, the varied doorways of the older colonial homes. The worn exteriors of these sometimes humble casas are painted in the brightest of colours, often wonderfully clashing with their neighbours, peeling away and weathered by the baking sun,…

On the way back from Uxmal and after a long hot day we stopped off at the San Antonio Mulix cenotes. Off the main road and down a long narrow dusty track through the low jungle, is the very unimposing gateway to the cenotes – it’s a very sleepy place with just one person on…

With thick jungle protection, Uxmal was shrouded from prying eyes and awaiting re-discovery, which didn’t arrive until the early 19th Century, when the American archaeologist John L. Stephens tracked down the ruins in 1841, introducing the world to Uxmal through his book ‘Incidents of Travel in Yucatan’. I’ve got a copy and I’m wading through its…

Leaving the Nuns’ Quadrangle you move through another stunning feature of Uxmal, a tall triangular vaulted passageway, onto another wide, stepped terrace and down to the ball court. A ball court is common to all Mesoamerican cultures, with the players aiming to pass a solid rubber ball  – unfeasibly – through one of two high stone…

Another scorching hot week in Mérida. Another ‘escape from the city’ adventure with our trusty driver, José Luis. This time our long-time friend Richard also in tow. Destination: the much-anticipated Mayan pyramids of Uxmal.  The ancient city of Uxmal (which means ‘thrice built’ in Mayan) lies 84ks from Mérida in the south west corner of…

Our great long-time friend from London, Richard, is staying with us for a week, so loads to catch up on and reminisce about – the ‘good old days’ when we were all last here in Mérida, some 30 years ago.  Ants and I have been here in Mérida for 5 weeks now (with 6 more…

Celestún is a sleepy sun scorched fishing village located on the sea-facing side of a vast narrow peninsula fringing the Gulf of Mexico, and nudging right up to the Campeche state border. It’s surrounded on one side by the the Ría Celestún Biosphere Reserve and, on the other, by the Reserva de la Biósfera Los…

On a blistering hot day of 38 degrees in Mérida, we made for the coastal village of Celestún, its clean beaches and vast wetland lagoon, known as the Ría Celestún Biosphere Reserve, at 146,000 acres, the largest estuary in the Yucatan.  Our trusty driver José Luis drove us the hour and a half out of…

X’calachen (Sh-cala-CHEN) is a rather down-at-heel dusty barrio next to the Cementerio General and was once best known for its many Chicharronerias or Chicharron (pork crackling) stalls. Sadly, due to the lack of economic opportunity, these once thriving outlets have fallen victim to decay and closure. But in recent years, as the spread of urbanisation…