What’s so ironic and tragic about religion in Latin America is that it’s the indigenous peoples who seem to be the most devout of Catholics. It’s a huge legacy of the Spanish (Spiritual) Conquest and hard to believe that the indigenous peoples throughout (what was then pre-Colombian) Mexico were pushed to abandon their ancient…

To say religion is big here is quite the understatement, it’s huge and massively complex. Only exploring on foot, we’ve visited at least 12 large churches and basilicas and of course the main Cathedral here in Oaxaca, not to mention countless smaller chapels and shrines – some more elaborate than others – whilst the many…

The Zapotec Goddess Centéotl, Francisca Pérez Bautista, from the delegation of Santa María Zacatepec welcomed more than 11,000 people in the Rotunda of the Azucena on the last ‘Los Lunes del Cerro’ for 2018. Alas we couldn’t get tickets for the main events in the Rotunda – all sold out weeks in advance, and I…

Sunday morning was a little slow to get going, especially after a Saturday night during Guelaguetza – a few sore Mezcal heads me thinks. However, being Domingo, all of the churches were ‘packed to the rafters’ – truly – I mean, not a pew to be had and spilling out onto the streets and squares…

You see huge containers of brightly coloured liquids on almost every street corner and street market – Aguas Frescas are all-natural fruit and veg drinks – some mixed with herbs, nuts and even flowers and cactus – blended with water and sugar if desired and served chilled. They’re deliciously refreshing, especially on a roasting hot…

  Our nearest mercado is Sánchez Pascuas, a real down-to-earth Oaxacan experience, filling up very early even on a Sunday with locals eating delicious looking ‘cooked-to-order’ breakfasts such as tamales, empanadas and memelas (topped with frijoles and queso fresco) bunched up on stools at comedores (eating counters) and catching up on the overnight news –…

The incredible 2-week festival of Guelaguetza is building to its Monday finale in a mass riot of colour, movement, joyous music, and pure excitement! This (Saturday) evening’s folklore parade of the eight regions of Oaxaca filled the narrow streets with such happiness and pride (and free pour Mezcal I might add) that we can’t stop…

We’re living in a street called Rufino Tamayo just a few minutes’ walk to the Zocalo and the historic centre. Wandering around our hood, we began to see this name signposted everywhere, but to what? So, Rufino Tamayo, it turns out, is not just the guy who gave his name to our street, but actually…

It’s now known that Hierve el Agua has been a sacred and ritualistic site for the Zapotec people for over 2,500 years with channels carved into the rock to form ancient irrigation systems that are unique in Mexico. The springs still flow today though not quite as ‘boiling’ as the name suggests but more trickling…