Lake Abraham is some 194 kilometres north of Banff towards Jasper along the Icefields Parkway, Highway 93, known as one of the most beautiful roads on the planet. And that’s no exaggeration, the scenery on this drive is out of this world with soaring snow-covered rocky peaks, snow-laden forests, frozen lakes, glacial valleys, vast icefields and rugged snowy wilderness as far as the eye can see. 

Today, the first day of 2026, was brilliantly clear and sunny, apparently quite the rarity in Alberta at this time of the year (they count on perhaps one blue sky day a month) so we were blessed to have blue skies and diamond-like powdery snow sparkling in the winter sun. There was hardly anyone else on the road this New Year’s Day morning, so easy enough to stop regularly and take in the icy stillness and the breathtaking frozen landscape.

We’re heading high into the Rockies and to Lake Abraham, Alberta’s largest reservoir, located on the Kootenay Plains along the North Saskatchewan River, to experience a particularly amazing phenomenon. It’s here that a dizzying amount of many-sized methane bubbles, caused by bacteria breaking down plant matter on the bottom of the lake, appear to be stacked on top of each other in concentric circles, frozen beneath your feet. However, to see this natural marvel requires a walk or a skate out onto the ice. I guess if you’re local it’s a cinch with your ice crampons or ice skates and indeed, dozens of people were already on the lake, dogs and kids too, marvelling at the bubbles, the awesomeness of the scenery, and the sense of danger as you literally walk on water. 

My nephew and his wife and their dog Kai (all currently living in Calgary) bravely ventured out on to the slippery surface, facing the windchill off the lake which must have been around -20. Kai had on his special winter boots to keep his paws warm. So cute! For us though, the ice was a formidable obstacle and only by gingerly sliding sitting on our butts could we reach the bubbles. But of course, what goes down must come up, and that’s when the fun and games started. Talk about slip sliding away. 

It’s bear country out here, Grizzlies to be specific. There are signs everywhere on the lake shoreline ‘Caution: Wildlife in the area. Carry Bear Spray within reach, and know how to use it. Make noise to prevent surprise encounters’. So, needless to say, we made a lot of noise and had the can in our back packs at the ready. 

It was a long drive out to Lake Abraham, and back of course, some 6 hours of driving but we wanted to end our day with famed Lake Louise. Frustratingly, as sunset approached, it was super crowded with all nearby car parks full to capacity. Finally, however, we found a spot away from the lake and made a forced march to our goal. It was busy alright, hundreds of people on the frozen lake – a Lowry-esque scene with multiple groups, families, piling onto the ice. But worth it. What a stunning place, with the towering Rocky Mountain peaks of the Victoria Glacier, Mount Lefroy, Fairview and the triangular Mount Temple wrapping around the lake and the fairytale-like Fairmount Chateau hotel setting off this picture-perfect iconic location. There were even horse-drawn sleigh rides, complete with red velvet blankets and hot chocolate drinks. 

For me though the most magical aspect of Lake Louise on this frigid late winter afternoon, as the sun set, was the so-called Optical Atmospheric Halo. It’s a wintertime phenomenon that can be seen in the sky during cold sunny winter conditions. The halo forms when sunlight passes through a thin veil of high-altitude cirrus or cirrostratus clouds, which are made up of tiny ice crystals. It really was quite magical.