We’ve been saving the best until last and it didn’t disappoint. We arrived at the Changdeokgung Palace gates early, armed with our pre-booked ‘Secret Garden’ tickets for 10.30am.

It was still only 9.30am so, on a bright and very cold (-5 or so) morning, we stepped into this vast sprawling compound, quickly realising that we had the entire place pretty much to ourselves and an hour to explore before the garden opened. Amazing, given the crowds we experienced at the last palace we visited, though that was a Sunday so maybe no real surprise there.

Changdeokgung Palace (Palace of Illustrious Virtue) was first built in 1405, the 5^th year of King Taejong. Expanded in 1463 and, (you know what’s coming), completely destroyed in the Japanese invasion of 1592. It was then rebuilt in 1610 and was the principal residence of the Joseon Kings for the next 270 years until Gyeongbokgung Palace was rebuilt in 1867. What makes this palace so important is that it remains largely intact from 1610 with some original parts from the 15^th century. So, I guess this place really has Old Seoul, if you pardon the pun. 

It was glorious to be able to walk around the complex on our own. The silence other than birds and a light wind was truly peaceful, enabling us to stand still and imagine the life and times of this place without any intrusion – a rare and special experience. There are explanation panels in Korean and English subtly placed detailing the function of each building, what happened there and who would have resided and visited. Each building comprises interconnecting sequences of rooms associated with a particular function: receiving of dignitaries, government, administration, the king’s private rooms, and those of his queen and concubines, Each building is also decorated with polychromatic details (especially under the eaves) with soaring roofs adorned with spirit animals and blue-coloured tiles (in one unique case). The interiors are sparsely furnished, other than the throne rooms, but framed wooden circular windows from the private living quarters provide gloriously peaceful garden and distant mountain views. 

Remarkably, part of this palace, notably Nakseon-jae hall, continued to be a royal residence right up until 1989, when both the Princess Deokhye and Crown Princess Bangia, though years apart in age, both died. Though, from what we were allowed to see, how anyone could have lived in these ancient buildings (seemingly without modern amenities) into the late 20^th Century is hard to imagine. One building (the old King’s quarters) had a discreet porte-cochere for cars put in around the First World War. That’s the most modern thing you could see.

Other post-war members of the royal family lived here at the whim of the republican leaders. However, the concept of nobility was abolished, both formally and in practice, following the Korean liberation in 1945. 

Reportedly, there remains an Imperial royal family still living in Korea today, but in name and lineage only. The nephew of King Yi Seok and heir of Emperor Sunjong is supposed to be the only living heir to the Korean throne currently residing in Korea. According to one report I read, ‘On October 6, 2018, His Imperial Highness King Yi Seok of the Joseon dynasty, named Prince Andrew Lee as his successor. The current Crown Prince is a Korean-American tech entrepreneur who lives in Las Vegas, Nevada. He had no idea he was related to the Korean royal family. He was born and raised in Indianapolis and only learned of his family’s royal connection when a family member casually mentioned they were part of the House of Yi, the former Imperial family of Joseon’. 

SOURCE: https://www.lovetoknow.com/life/relationships/korean-royal-family-must-know-facts