Once you’ve pushed your way inside Mercado Lucas de Gálvez, you’ll find densely packed stalls heaving with fresh produce in a riot of colour and smells, though with a mask on the senses were a tad muffled. However, with the market as heaving as it was, I was happy to have the mask firmly on. 

There’s a lot to see here and possibly the best way of getting around would be to have (as you can) a guide – someone who can explain the various native produce and introduce you to the wonders of Yucatecan food. 

One final observation. There were no tourists here! And no one seemed to notice us or be bothered with me taking photos. This a world of difference to other markets we’ve been to in Latin America, the worst being in Sao Paolo where we were so harangued by stall vendors that – charming as it was – we were forced after less than half an hour to flee, never to return. No, Mercado Lucas de Gálvez is a real living mercado, run by local Mayans for local people – just about as authentic a market as you’ll find.