Directly opposite our hotel on the rather unpronounceable Calle Netzahualcóyotl is the stunning Museo Robert Brady, though more of a supremely stylish and very liveable (we wish) home than a museum, yet one of the most iconic cultural spaces in Cuernavaca.  The house began its life as La Casa de la Torre in the 16th Century,…

Cuernavaca is a hilly city, with its deep dark barrancas (ravines) seemingly everywhere – not that you really get to see them as houses (some, more shacks) are precariously packed along winding ravine edges, dense with vegetation, with the distant sound of running water far below in the Dante‐esque abyss. Some of these houses look extremely grand, some…

Cuernavaca, known as the ‘City of Eternal Spring’, nicknamed by Alexander von Humboldt in the 19th Century, certainly lives up to its name, with a gorgeous year-round warm climate, despite its 1,550m altitude.  We’re here principally for research purposes, following in the footsteps of Malcolm Lowry, author of arguably one of the great novels of the…

San Ángel is one of those places in a city that perhaps you’d read about but just never got around to visiting. Once a rural hamlet far outside the boundaries of Mexico City, San Ángel is in-fact, one of the most beautiful, clearly one of the wealthiest, and certainly one of the most security-conscious barrios…

Frida Kahlo looms large when thinking of Mexican artists, especially when in Mexico City, where a visit to Casa Azul in Coyoacan is almost a rite of passage. We’ve attempted to visit Casa Azul a number of times, casually I admit, without booking a ticket, and every time we’ve rocked up, the queues have been…

The Palacio de Bellas Artes in Mexico City is a wonderous grand pile of early 20th Century design, with an elaborate exterior of Neo Classical and Art Nouveau architecture, topped with an iron and Marotti crystal dome, creating gallery spaces below naturally illuminated by skylights, a first for its time.  The Palacio de Bellas Artes was…

Meanwhile, over at the magnificent Museo Nacional de Antropología, truly one of the world’s great museums, is the most comprehensive collection of ‘Pre-Cortesian’ (Hernán Cortés) history, dating back to 1790 when the great 24 tonne Aztec Sun Stone was uncovered at the base of the Metropolitan Cathedral.  The Museum is packed with the most important archaeological…

There’s not a lot left of the legendary Aztec city of Tenochtitlan, save – amazingly – some stone remnants of the Templo Mayor (Main Temple), where the most important ritual and ceremonial activities in Aztec life took place. Much of this is now below street level, as Tenochtitlan and now modern-day Mexico City continue to…

On any Sunday, Bosque de Chapultepec is packed with locals enjoying the warm sunshine and the cool shady woods and lakes of this vast park. Chapultepec is the lungs of Mexico City and at over 686 hectares, it’s the largest and oldest urban park in all of Latin America.  The crowds stream out of the…

Our home away from home in Ciudad de México is the gorgeously leafy and oh so cool La Condesa, a rather large well-to-do fashionable barrio in the city that consists of three neighbourhoods: Colonia Condesa, Colonia Hipódromo and Colonia Hipódromo Condesa (our immediate hood).  It has wide tree-lined avenues with shady central garden walkways, the…