Equipped with our rechargeable Tmoney card we tackled the Seoul subway system. Initially, it’s a tad daunting – just looking at the maps in the subway (not everything in English) is enough to induce a headache it’s so massive, but then its relative colour-coded simplicity and ease of use becomes apparent, just don’t attempt in rush hour as it’ll be packed. We’re on Line 3, so it’s a 10-stop ride with the locals into Jongo-gu and Gwanghwamun, the regal heart of old Seoul since 1395. 

The vast palace complex of Gyeongbokgung (Palace of Brilliance and Fortune) was the principal royal residence of the Joseon dynasty until 1592 when it was destroyed by fire during the Japanese invasion – an annoyingly recurrent event over the coming centuries. Incredibly, the palace lay in ruins until the late 19^th century when it was rebuilt for King Jong, only for the Japanese to inflict even more terror on the inhabitants of Seoul and level much of the entire complex in 1895 (as well as assassinating the king’s wife, Queen Min) to make way for their own gigantic Japanese Government General Building. This itself was destroyed and pulled down by the Koreans in the 1990’s to make way for the complete rebuild of the Gyeongbokgung Palace complex. The site of Queen Min’s murder is now occupied by a charming hexagonal pavilion on a small island reached by a bridge (the lake was frozen when we were there).

So, much of what you see today has been rebuilt in the late 20^th century, but of course to exacting standards and detail. Let’s hope the Japanese leave it alone for good now. 

The most amazing thing you notice upon arriving at the palace of Gyeongbokgung on a bright sunny but freezing cold Sunday morning, aside from the vast scale of this place, is that almost everyone milling around here is wearing traditional Korean clothing or ‘hanbok’ – both locals, Korean tourists and foreign tourists alike, as wearing hanbok clothing will get you into Seoul’s palaces and historical sites for free.

There are numerous hanbok rental stores throughout the district, renting you the appropriate gear for men and women for around 15,000 won (A$15) for a few hours, plus numerous add-ons, like elaborate hats, sashes and, of course, warrior accessories. It’s quite the scene actually, a bit like stumbling into a historical movie set but with the actors in downtime, using their mobiles and cameras. Women wore mostly ‘chima jeogori’, upper garments over voluminous full-length pastel-coloured skirts with shawls, whilst men wore jeogori with loose-fitting trousers and a variety of vests, jackets and coats. Everyone is staging photos and videos, some with professional vloggers in tow – and they come in all shapes, sizes and ages. It’s quite the scene! 

http://hanboknamglobal.com/hanbok-rental/

How to Wear Hanbok: Men’s Hanbok Guide

Sadly, Gyeongbokgung feels a little Disneyfied not only because of this but of course due to the relatively recent re construction of the entire building. All of the buildings are mostly empty apart from a couple of throne rooms, so you’re left to your own imagination as to how court life would have existed here. They’ve done an excellent job in the recreation and in many places, you’d believe that this was an ancient palace complex, albeit in good condition, but there are other royal palaces in Seoul that have almost survived, certainly not totally destroyed, such as the World Heritage-listed Changdeokgung Palace complex and gardens. Originally dating back to the 15^th century but of course….destroyed by the Japanese in the 16^th century. But at least what we see today dates from that period. 

Changdeokgung remained a royal palace for the descendants of the Josean dynasty until 1989, but more on that later.