Koufonisi is made up of two island gems, Pano (upper) and Kato (lower), both part of the Lesser Cyclades that include Irakleia, Schoinoussa, Donousa and Keros with Pano Koufonisi the most populated with some 400 or so souls – more in summer when tourists arrive to stay, no day trippers though, as these islands are far away from the party hotspots. These tiny sun-soaked islands are scattered in the Aegean between Naxos to the north and Amorgos to the south – with Santorini a distant fuzz on the horizon. SeaJets plow the impossibly sapphire blue seas here, bringing the more adventurous tourists from Mykonos, Naxos, Paros and Santorini. We arrived from Mykonos, a two-hour SeaJet ride in calm seas and a three-hour ride, an extremely bumpy ride, when the wind picks up, as it often does around these islands. We were there to stay with two great friends N&H who now spend up to eight months a year on this idyllic quiet island. Lucky them! 

The first word of advice when we arrived is to adopt the art of ‘halara’ whilst on the island – one of the most revered states of being in Greek island life. Essentially it means to take it easy, to slow down and relax. And that is exactly what we intended to do, pretty much nothing. 

The first thing that strikes you about Koufonisi is the intensity of the colours – the almost electric blue of the crystal-clear Aegean, the glowing golden coastline, the irresistibly yellow sand beaches and the humming white of the tiny buildings splashed with vivid bougainvillea that cluster together around the Hora (town), the only settlement on the island. 

There’s essentially one track (a rudimentary road at best) that runs along the south of the island, linking up the pristine beaches of Finikas, Fanos, Italida and Pori. On a lazy early morning, what better way to start the day than a swim in the gorgeous town beach that looks, like all the adjoining beaches, across to the uninhabited and semi-mountainous island of Keros. Locals are keen to point out to you that Keros looks like a voluptuous woman reclining and gazing into the heavens, the human shape formed by the ridge line of the island. And, the more you look across at Keros, the more you see her, even imagining her hair cascading down the mountainside. Keros has been designated as a protected archaeological site from the Greek Ministry of Culture, once one of the most important centres of the Cycladic civilisation, a bronze age culture known for its flat faced female figurines carved out of pure white marble. 

The order of the day on Koufonisi, after the first morning swim that is, is of course another swim and lunch at one of the beachside tavernas. An easy walk from the house, Finikas is an impossibly gorgeous beach of yellow sand with the crystal-clear emerald Aegean lapping at your feet. Small fishing boats ply the waters from the Hora and, for just 5 euros you can hop on and off one of the competing white and blue hulled boats and beach hop the day away. 

As we both eagerly adopted the ‘art of halara’, we passed our three glorious days on Koufonisi doing pretty much nothing. Swim, Walk, Swim, Eat, Swim… a true dose of Cyclades paradise. 

Here’s the link to the gorgeous home we were so fortunate to stay in whilst in Koufonisi. We highly recommend staying here!

https://www.airbnb.com.au/rooms/41745103?viralityEntryPoint=1&unique_share_id=9543C0BD-AB84-4D20-8C51-ADBA9F68C0DB&slcid=4b6d31a646e146f79ba549071b0fd47b&s=76&feature=share&adults=1&channel=native&slug=ZscpC9Bx&source_impression_id=p3_1719917844_P36nIMK5qzz_J4c2

http://360.finikaskoufonisia.com