The Shinkansen from Osaka to Kyoto takes  just 15 minutes – that’s it, barely enough time to take your seat and settle down. It’s that punctual and that fast. We took the 12.06, with people still standing and getting themselves organised as the gleaming white bullet train pulled out. Nothing stops the punctuality of the Shinkansen thanks to the proud regimentation of the crew, neatly saluting each other before performing a deep bow. 

We’re at heart-stopping speed before you know it, racing out of Osaka towards Kyoto and, again, before you know it you’ve arrived. First stop on the Osaka to Tokyo Shinkansen line. Kyoto. 

The remarkable efficiency is an obvious reflection on just why the UK, USA and Australia (amongst many other countries) have never been able to get their act together on high-speed rail – UK’s HS2 disaster a case in point. It’s incredible to think that Japan launched the world’s first high-speed rail service, the Shinkansen or ‘bullet train’ between Tokyo and Osaka in….wait for it… 1964! Talk about foresight and vision. Sure, there may be sleeker, faster trains around but for pure consistency of class, speed and punctuality, the Shinkansen is unrivalled to this day. 

We’re staying in yet another gorgeous traditional style Japanese hotel, Kikokutei Bekkan, nestled beside the Shoseien Gardens, just a couple of blocks from the Kamo River and an easy walk into downtown Kyoto. Unlike Osaka, which heaves with its 18 million plus inhabitants, Kyoto seems to be on a much more human scale, no cloud-piercing sky-scrapers here – other than the 100-metre Kyoto Observation Tower. Sure, downtown is modern and busy, especially around the intersection of Shijo and Kawaramachi streets where you’ll find the impeccable high-end Takashimaya department store jammed with a dizzying array of the world’s best luxury brands. But just around the corner and you’re plunged into old Kyoto with the ever-lively 400-year-old Nishiki Market, known locally as ‘Kyoto’s Kitchen’. It’s a long and narrow covered passageway (a great refuge from Monday’s rain) that’s packed at any time of the day, especially around lunchtime – as we found out. Here you’ll find hundreds of vendors selling all kinds of local specialties – Sushi, Dashimaki Tamago, Sweet Omelettes, Pickles, Matcha Tea, Yuba (Tofu Skin), Fresh fish, Tempura, Baby Octopus  (with a Quail’s Egg inside its head – why not?) and skewers over hot coals – Eel, Shrimp, Wagyu, Chicken….anything and everything. Some of the stalls become standing room only eateries serving steaming dishes of food, washed down with cups of hot or cold Sake. It’s an incredible market – a real feast for the senses. And if the food wasn’t enough to whet your appetite, then the stalls and shops sell some of the finest copper cooking utensils and murderous Japanese steel knives around, for a dizzying price of course.

https://kikokutei.com